Saltoro Kangri group -c7,495/c7,742m-
Saltoro Kangri I -c7,380m-
Saltoro Kangri II (K35) -c7,705m-
Saltoro Kangri II, East summit -c7,518 m-
Saltoro Kangri III -c7,495 m-
Sia Kangri Group -c7,422/c7,273m-
Sia Kangri I (Queen Mary peak) -c7,273m-
Sia Kangri II -c7,325m- (c7,303m)
Sia Kangri III -c7,273m-
Sia Kangri IV -c7,315m-
Hardinge Peak (Sia Chhish) -c7,024m-
Sherpi Kangri I -c7,380m-
Sherpi Kangri II -c7,303m-
Singhi Kangri (Mont Rose) -c7,202m- (c7,751m)
Tawiz Peak (Amulet Peak)
Teram Kangri group -c7,195/c7,410m-
Teram Kangri I -c7,422m-
Teram Kangri II -c7,406m-
Teram Kangri III -c7,382m-
Teram Kangri IV -c7,300m-
Thugu Peak -c6,158m-

Saltoro Kangri group -c7,495/c7,742m- :

Saltoro Kangri mean " yellow mountains ".
The Saltoro Group is one of the most powerfull of all the Karakoram range. 3 of the highest summit of the group are still virgin, cause of the Pak/India dispute territory. The Saltoro II (c7,705m) is the highest summit without climb that it make one of the most challenging mountains of the world.

Saltoro Kangri I -c7,380m-:

In 1935, british Expedition led by J. Waller with John Hunt attempted Saltoro Kangri. They camped on the Peak 36 glacier.
In 1962, Japanese-Pakistan expedition led by T. Shidei made the first ascent of Saltoro Kangri
1972 'Shimla Agreement' was signed between India and Pakistan. It failed to clearly demarcate the border along this glacier.
In 1975, Japanese expeditions led by S. Yamamoto attempted Saltoro Kangri I.
In 1981, Indian Army expedition led by Col. N. Kumar reached the upper glacier via the Nubra valley. They climbed Saltoro Kangri I, Sia Kangri I, reached Indira Col (West), Sia la, Turkestan la and Saltoro Pass (PK 36 glacier pass).

Saltoro Kangri II (K35) -c7,705m- :

Never climbed.

Saltoro Kangri II, East summit -c7,518 m- :

Never climbed.

Saltoro Kangri III -c7,495 m- :

Never climbed.

Sia Kangri Group -c7,422/c7,273m- :

Its broad icy summit was climbed in 1934 by a strong international expedition directed by G.O. Dyrenfurth, in which in particular André Roch takes part. The team, after attempt Hidden Peak brings back two beautiful successes on Sia Kangri I (Queen Mary Peak) -7422m -, and Baltoro Kangri (Golden Throne) -7260m -.
Note finally that this border area remains dangerous: in 1986, Americans climbers of an indo-American expedition went back just under the summit cause of an Pakistani forces attack, letting the Indians cimbers go at the top.

Sia Kangri I (Queen Mary peak) -c7,422m- :

Sia mean " Rose ", Thi is the "Rose Peak".
1974 : Austrian expedition led by W. Stefan climbed Sia Kangri from SW.
1979 : Japanese expedition led by R. Hayashibara climbed Sia Kangri from the Conway Saddle, descended its S face to the Siachen glacier. They trekked out via Bilafond (Saltoro pass).
1981 : Indian Army expedition led by Col. N. Kumar reached the upper glacier via the Nubra valley. They climbed Saltoro Kangri I, Sia Kangri I, reached Indira Col (West), Sia la, Turkestan la and Saltoro Pass (PK 36 glacier pass).
1986 : Sia Kangri was climbed by the Indo-American expedition led by Maj. K.V. Cherian and Leo Lebon. They traversed the glacier. Seven Indians reached the summit and Americans reached Indira Col (West).

Sia Kangri II -c7,325m- :

In 1956, Austrian expedition led by F. Moravec climbed Sia Kangri West.
In 1975, an Austrian expedition led by Gunther Schutz crossed over Bilafond (Saltoro pass) and attempted Saltoro Kangri II.
In 1981, dutch expedition attempted Saltoro Kangri II from the west.

Sia Kangri III -c7,273m- :

[To complete ]

Sia Kangri IV -c7,315m-:

[To complete ]

Hardinge Peak (Sia Chhish) -c7,024m- :

First attept and success in 1983 by an Italian's teal (leader G. Mallucci).

Sherpi Kangri I -c7,380m-:

In 1972 'Shimla Agreement' was signed between India and Pakistan. It failed to clearly demarcate the border along this glacier.
In 1974 Japanese expedition led by T. Tanaka attempted Sherpi Kangri II via S ridge. This was the first expedition allowed from Pakistan after the 'Shimla Agreement'.
In 1974, British expedition led by D. Alcock attempted Sherpi Kangri.
In 1976, Japanese expedition made first ascent of Sherpi Kangri, led by H. Hirai.

Sherpi Kangri II -c7,303m- :

[To complete]

Singhi Kangri (Mount Rose) -c7,202m (c7,751m)- :

Singhi mean "Difficulty" and was first christened by Sahib Afraj, indian officer during Visser expedition in 1835.
Singhi Kangri was first climbed in 1976 by seven mountaineers from Tohoku University, Japan. This team climbed the North Face and North West Ridge above the Staghar Glacier having crossed both the Bilafond (Saltoro Pass) and Turkestan La from Pakistan (the area of today's disputed territory).
In 2002, unconfirmed reports suggest that an Indian Army expedition organized by the Corps of Engineers and led by Col Dinesh Kumar, made the second ascent of 7,751m Singhi Kangri close to the head of the Siachen Glacier. In the process members of the team also made the first ascent of a subsidiary 7,195m summit referred to as Mercury. The report suggests these two summits were reached on the 2nd October. Other members of the expedition are said to have subsequently climbed Teram Kangri I (7,464m), II (7,407m) and III (7,382m). The group also climbed to the Indira Col at the head of the Siachen.
An indian expédition made oniy the sec-ond-ever attempt to climb 7,202m Singhi Kangri near the head of the Siachen on the border with China. They established a new base camp on September 16 at 5,100m and Camp 1 at 6,325m on the 21 st 2007. having climbed the west face. It appeared that the hardest part of the climb was over, and they deemed oniy one more camp necessary before making a summit attempt on both Singhi Kangri and Pt. 6,850m. However, poor weather and dangerous snow conditions prevented further progress, and they abandoned the route on the 29th.

Tawiz Peak (Amulet Peak):

Once some of the Yarkandis descended the Ghyari nala and took away a Balti woman with them to their glacier village. To take revenge, Baltis contacted an important mullah, who gave them a tawiz (amulet) which was to be placed on the Bilafond (Saltoro pass). Mullah instructed them to return via the Nubra valley. However the Baltis, after placing the tawiz on the pass returned the way they had come. Soon afterwards a great storm visited the Siachen glacier and destroyed the settlements and only the rocky desolation remained. The priests say that the calamity would have been greater had they followed the directions fully. Because of this lapse in following the instructions wild roses were not destroyed by the storm. Today roses grow in plenty near the snout and in the lower valleys, though the entire glacier is barren. The glacier is called Siachen (Sia-rose, chen-place of) -the place of roses.
1956: Imperial College British expedition led by Eric Shipton climbed Tawiz and visited several passes.

Teram Kangri group -c7,195/c7,410m- :

The famous frozen Teram plateau was explored like various surrounding pass. This high plateau is unique by its size at the altitude of 6200m, surrounding by high mountains on all its accesses. Harish Kapadia and Ryuji Hayashibara for the first time would reached the plateau in 2002 during indo-Japanese expedition in the area. The Italia pass (passo Italia) was also crossed by this expedition 73 years after the first time.

Teram Kangri I -c7,722m-:

Teram Kangri I and II were climbed by the 1975 Shizouka University expedition. These Japanese first climbed the South Ridge of Teram Kangri II from the upper Siachen Glacier and then traversed the connecting ridge northwest to the main summit. Four years later another Japanese team, this time from Hirosaki University, climbed Teram Kangri III via the South East Ridge from the Singhi Glacier. All these Japanese teams approached from Pakistan. Both Teram Kangri I and II have received second ascents, the former in 1992 and the latter in 1978 by Indian Army expeditions, both approaching via the Nubra Valley and Siachen Glacier.
In 1992, an Indian army team led by Col. M.S. Gill climbed Teram Kangri I. No details available.
In 2002, an indian expedition climbed Teram Kangri I (7,464m), II (7,407m) et III (7,382m). They also climbed the famous India Pass.

Teram Kangri II -c7,406m-:

1975 : Japanese expedition led by H. Katayama made first ascents of Teram Kangri I and II, coming over Bilafond (Saltoro pass). This was the first expedition to cross over into the Siachen glacier from Bilafond (Saltoro pass) with permits from Pakistan.
1978 : Indian Army expedition led by Col N. Kumar approached from Nubra and climbed Teram Kangri II. This was the first Indian expedition to enter the glacier from the Nubra valley after the 1930 Italian expedition by G.Dainelli (though Indian security parties have reportedly visited the glacier till Bilafond (Saltoro pass)).
In 2002, an indian expedition climbed Teram Kangri I (7,464m), II (7,407m) et III (7,382m). They also climbed the famous India Pass.

Teram Kangri III -c7382m-:

In1979, a japanese expedition led by S. Hanada crossed over Bilafond (Saltoro pass) and made the first ascent of Teram Kangri III.
In 2002, an indian expedition climbed Teram Kangri I (7,464m), II (7,407m) et III (7,382m). They also climbed the famous India Pass.

Teram Kangri IV -c7,300m- :

Summit seems virgin.

Thugu Peak -c6,158m-:

Dam and Kapadia explored the Rassa Glacier and unsuccessfully attempted a 6,158m peak, named Thugu, close to Base Camp. Poor weather and the prevailing international situation at the time curtailed the expedition and the members returned home earlier than planned.

Sources :

All informations mainly coming from,

Ø The American Alpine Journal, 1996 to 2004 editions
Ø Himalaya in Alpin Style by Andy Fanshawe & Stephen Venables, (Arthaud - France), 192 pages, 1996 edition
Ø The Karakorum, Mountains of Pakistan de Shiro Shirahata édition Ferezsons (pvt.) ltd
Ø Les plus belles montagnes du monde (Glénat - Grenoble-France), 296 pages, 1993 edition
Ø Himalaya-Karakoram, Mountains of Pakistan by Shiro Shirahata, (Denoël - France), edition 1990
Ø Ils ont conquis l'Himalaya by Bernard Pierre (Plon - France), 1979 edition
Ø Deux siècles d'alpinisme by Chris Bonnington (Delachaux & Niestlé), 1992 edition
Ø ExplorersWeb web site (k2climb)
Ø The Siachen Booklet by Harish Kapadia

... and some others. All informations compiled by Blankonthemap.

Révision B - 23/02/08 (http://blankonthemap.free.fr)