Géographie du Cachemire
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Big Walls -~c6,000m-
Hispar pass -c5,151m-
Sokha (Sokha La)
Biafo & Hispar glaciers
Solu et de Sokha glaciers
Snow Lake (Lukpe Lawo/Lukpe Balto) -c5,000m-
unames peaks-~c6,000m-
Baintha Brakk group (Ogre's group) -c6,960/7285m-
Baintha Brakk I (Ogre I) -c7,285m-, South face
Baintha Brakk I (Ogre I) -c7,285m-, South pilar
Baintha Brakk I (Ogre I) -c7,285m-, South West face
Baintha Brakk I (Ogre I) -c7,285m-, North face
Baintha Brakk I (Ogre I) -c7,285m-, East summit(7150m)
Baintha Brakk I (Ogre I) -c7,285m-, south East ridge
Baintha Brakk II (Ogre II) -c6,960m-
Baintha Brakk II (Ogre II) -c6,960m-, "Death Alley"
Baintha Brakk III (Ogre III) -c6,800m-
Barbanchen -c5,700m-

Biacherahi Towers -~c5,700/c5,850m-
Biacherahi towers, South tower (violeta Peak) -c5,800m-
Biacherahi Tower, Central tower -c5,750m-
Biacherahi towers, Northern tower -c5,850m-
Bobisghir -c6,414m-
Bravo Brakk -c5,999-
Goma Brakk (Gama Sokha Lumbu) -c5,200m-
Chikkorin Sar -c6,205m-
Ganchen -c6,462m-
Hanispispur Group -c5,885m/c6,049m (c6,300m)-
Hanispispur, Northern summit
Hanispispur -c6,047m (6300m)-, South peak
Lakpilla Brakk (Lukpilla Brakk/Ogre's Thumb/Uzun brakk) -c5,380m-
Lakpilla Brakk (Lukpilla Brakk/Ogre's Thumb/Uzun brakk) -c5,380m-, Southwest face
Lakpilla Brakk (Lukpilla Brakk/Ogre's Thumb/Uzun brakk) -c5,380m-, East pilar
Lakpilla Brakk (Lukpilla Brakk/Ogre's Thumb/Uzun brakk) -c5,380m-, South face
Massif des Latoks -6456/7151m-
Latok I -7,145m-, North face(Karakoram walker)
Latok I -7145m-, North ridge
Latok II -7151m-
Latok II -7108m-, North West ridge
Latok II -7108m-, south ridge
Latok II -7108m-, voie "Tsering Mosong"
Latok II -7108m-, "Nomadu"
Latok III -6949m-
Latok III, antécime (Indian Face Spur) -5200m-
Latok III -6949m-, West face
Latok IV -6456m (c6,131m)-
Latok V -c6,190m-
Latok VI
Redakh Brakk -c6,000m-
Spaldang Peak -c5,550m-
Shel Chakpa -c5,800m-
Sokha Brakk (Sekha Brakk) -c5,956m-
Sokha Brakk (Sekha Brakk/crête de la libellule), -c5,450m-
Sosbun Brakk -c6,413m-
Tsuntse Brakk -~c6,000m-
Uzum Brakk -~c6,000m-
Workman Peak -c5,882m-

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Here joints maps of the area :

Unnamed Big Walls -~c6,000m-:

A big wall is 1000m of high rock spur is a minimum 80° steep. These spurs have a semi-official name: Hassan Peak or Gum peaks. It's approximatively 1500 meters high.

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Hispar pass -c5,151m-:

On left bank of Hispar glacier, the pass was always difficult and dangerous: the Hispar glacier is crevassed, and the upstream reservoir of Biafo too vast. In the medium of XIXième century, a band of plunderers lost themself in a storm between Nagar and Askole.

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Sokha pass (Sokha La):

The existence of a glacier without emissary on the other side of Sokha pass had been constant with insistence by Fanny Bullock-Workman against W.M.Conway. H.W.Tilman, disillusioned, finished the myth in 1937 when he crossed the pass and walked on the glacier and, two days later, bathed in the hot and sulfurous springs of Bisil in the Basha valley.

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Biafo & Hispar glaciers :

Image satellite du glacier de BiafoImage satellite du glacier d'HisparRespectively 58 and 68 kms long, Biafo & Hispar glaciers cut an big way in the heart of central Karakoram and constitutes one of the longest extent icy place out of the polar areas. H.Godwin Austen map the Shigar glaciers in 1861 and went up Biafo glacier but this super glacial motorway remained largely ignored before the arrival of Martin Conway 31 years later. Conway was the first to cross Hispar pass the 18th of July 1892. This mission and the description of the places attracted the Workman Bullock which remain forever associated with the first explorations of this area. Biafo and Hispar were attended for a long time by Askole and Nagar local people: they however imposed 120 kilometers of hard walk on the glacier, complicated, painful and dangerous. Until the middle of the last century, Nagaris and Hunzakuts people have to cross Nushiq La, the western pass from Hispar to Arandu and down the valley of Basha towards Shigar, Skardu and beyond. Baintha Brakk dominates, one of the great bivouacs to the left bank called Baintha (Brakk means in Balti " the rock mountain"). The glacier of Biafo is moving at the 200m speed per year. The Hispar glacier run down the foot of a the highest group of mountains in Asia, the Hispar Range. Its movements of rise and erosion be the more active of world.
The first ski crossing of the Karakoram range over Hispar pass was made by G.Rowell from Panamik (Nubra) to Gilgit (Hunza).

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Solu & Sokha glaciers :

A small and primarily female group of British mountaineers planned to spend the second half of July 2000 exploring the Hucho Alchori Glacier north of Arandu. Base Camp was reached but as a result of the previous lean winter and almost continuous rain while they were in the region, feasible lines on accessible peaks were incomplete and threatened either by stonefall or avalanche. No climbs were completed but the team did find evidence of a camp, which they surmise must have originated from the Bullock- Workman expedition in the early 1900s. This glacier system was also visited in 1959 by Tony Streather's British Army expedition, which climbed a peak (provisionally named Gloster Peak) on the Hispar watershed.
Dave Wilkinson returned to old haunts last summer with a visit to the Arandu (see redakh Brakk, Shek Chakpa Basha River) Valley in the company of fellow British mountaineers, Bill Church, Gus Morton and Stewart Muir. The objective this time was a fine, pointed snow peak of c5,800m towards the head of the valley that rises east from the village of Zil towards the flanks of the Ganchen Massif.
Dave Wilkinson continued his exploration of the largely unknown glacier basins accessed from the Arandu Valley with a small expedition to the Solu Glacier immediately south of the Hispar. With fellow British climbers Ken Findlay, Paul Hudson and Karl Zientek, Wilkinson established Base Camp on the 22nd July at c3,850m a little way above the herdsmen's encampment of Sugulu and three days' march from the jeep road at Bizil. Although briefly visited and mapped during Shipton's 1939 expedition, there were no known reports of previous mountaineering activities from the Solu Glacier. However, en route to Base Camp the British party heard from locals that an expedition had visited the valley several years before and climbed peaks from the glacier basin west of Singulu, Unfortunately, information on who they were and exactly where they went was extremely sketchy.

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Snow Lake (Lukpe Lawo/Lukpe Balto) -c5,000m-:

The highest section of the Biafo glacier is create by two other glaciers, almost flat: Lukpe Lawo, in the North and Sim Gang, the East. Martin Conway christened this vast snow-covered place which it discovered from Hispar pass "Snow Lake". It's 45 km2 makes a very impressive Arctic there. In 1937 B Tilman with his faithful E Shipton noticed the traces steps of possible yeti. They were approximately 20 centimeters wide and were spaced by about 50 centimetres, were round without trace of foot or of heel, 3 or 4 days old and were steep approximately 30 centimeters. Baltis porters affirmed that it was the smallest yeti, which eat human, the other nourishing rather yaks. Tilman perhaps was unaware of that these steps could come from bears steps which there remains only in the North of the Biafo and Hispar glaciers, on the Panmah glacier and around. It is possible to see vultures, ibexs and bharals on the accesses of the Biafo and Hispar glaciers, a little downwards. Baltis name of this Arctic place is "Lukpe Lawo" or "Lukpe Balto". Snow Lake, far from the crowded Baltoro is very wild, expeditions are still rare to see, even the less intrepid trekkers, when he sit down to admire sunset at Baintha camp or on the bank of Snow Lake, it can feel as a a true worthy follower of Conway, Shipton, Bullock or Duke of Abruzzi.
From the Snow Lake, we can see the fully majesty of the Northern Baintha Brakk (7285m), one of the major problems of Karakoram. The Bobisgir (6416m) close the North-western angle of the Panmah range (Panmah which means "the arc shooting", in reference to its characteristic form).

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Unnamed summits -~c6,000m-:

There is still innumerable mountains without name in the area and whose summits remains still virgins. These summits separating the glacier of Biafo and Hoh Lungma valley in the South-East Sosbun Brakk : they do not reach 6000m, the rock is generally poor, but they are very impressive, powerful attraction of the unknown of virgin summits in a secret area.

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Baintha group (Ogre's group) -c6960m/c7,285m- :

Up to the beginning of 2001 almost 20 expeditions, many involving world-class mountaineers, had tried the Ogre by various routes, most concentrating on either the elegant South or South East Pillars. Few had come within 300m of the summit and no one other than the first ascensionists had managed to stand on the highest point.
In year 2001, four expeditions attempted 7285m Baintha Brakk last summer and although talented groups from America, Austria and Slovenia all failed, a three-man Swiss-German team achieved the highly coveted second ascent of the peak after an interval of 24 years. Although no new ground was climbed, their success was arguably the most notable mountaineering achievement during the entire 2001 season.

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Baintha Brakk I (Ogre I) -c7,285m-, south face :

Four attempts had already been made on the formidable Ogre, the highest mountain in the Biafo Glacier region, when Doug Scott gained a permit for 1977. The assault was initially a two-pronged affair, with Paul 'Tut' Braithwaite and Scott aiming for an Alpine style ascent of the elegant rock prow forming the South Pillar, while Mo Anthoine, Chris Bonington, Nick Estcourt and Clive Rowland concentrated on a more conventional fixed roped ascent of the Southwest Face. After climbing a relatively safe icy rib through the avalanche threatened Southwest Face, Bonington and Estcourt took off for a very bold attempt at the lengthy traverse towards the Main Summit. Four days later they returned unsuccessful, though as a consolation they had managed to bag the lower West Top.
An injury to Braithwaite put the South Pillar out of the question, so after all team members had retired to base to lick their wounds, Scott joined Antoine, Bonington and Rowland for a traverse over the West Top and along the connecting ridge towards the Main Summit. On the 13th July, from a snowhole at c7000m, Bonington and Scott set out for the summit in a lightweight bid without bivouac equipment.
Tricky climbing led to the final tower, which was nearly vertical granite for over 100m. The long second pitch involved very demanding free and aid climbing (VI and A2) and included a giant pendulum movement at half-height to gain a second crack system. Above, several more hard pitches led to the summit, which the pair reached just before dusk. Subsequent events would probably overshadow what was possibly the hardest technical climbing achieved above 7200m at the time.
Not long after, while attempting to make a diagonal rappel from just below the top, Scott slipped and made a huge involuntary pendulum across the wall, slamming into a rocky corner on the far side and badly breaking both ankles. From now on the descent would be a fight for survival, or as Scott reflected, 'so that's how it was going to be; a whole new game with new restrictions on winning'.
After a night out in the open with no equipment, the two continued rappelling and were eventually met by Antoine and Rowland, who escorted them back to the snowcave, Scott on hands and knees. The four were then trapped for more than 24 hours in a fierce blizzard, after which, with no food remaining, Rowland made a superb effort, leading the team through atrocious weather over the West Summit and down to a second, much poorer, snowcave. The next day the storm was, if anything, worse but the three fit climbers battled down, escorting a sliding or crawling Scott towards two flattened tents left at the West Col. If things weren't already bad enough, they Suddenly took a turn for the worse after Bonington fell, breaking two ribs and badly damaging his hand. It was now left to Antoine and Rowland to get the party off the mountain before it became too late. Four days later, when Scott finally crawled over the moraine above Base Camp, his clothing torn to shreds, his knees raw and bloody, Braithwaite and Estcourt had already left, having given up the party for dead. Scott was subsequently carried for three days by local porters to the nearest village, where a helicopter was able to evacuate him. However, a bad landing put the aircraft out of action and Bonington was forced to wait another week before he could be flown to safety. The 1977 ascent has undoubtedly become one of the highlights of British mountaineering but only confirms that when operating at the highest levels, climbers often tread a very fine line (the line of the first ascent of The Ogre (7285m) by Bonington and Scott in July 1977 was repeated for the first time by the German-Swiss trio of Huber, Stöcker and Wolf in June 2001).
In 1996, Shigeru Nagasawa and his five Japanese compatriots from the Kanagawa Himalayan Club were hoping to make the second ascent of the original 1978 British Route on Baintha Brakk (The Ogre) but gave up in August. The individual ages of team members spread from a mere 19 to 56. They were apparently planning to fix up to 3,000m of rope on the mountain.
During summer 1997, The 7,285m Ogre had two more unsuccessful attempts on its flanks during the summer. Twenty five years old Jan Mersch and 28 years old Jochen Hasse, who were part of the German group on Latok II, retreated at around 6,250m from the frequently tried South Pillar. The pillar itself (25 pitches up to VII and A1 ending at about 6,400m) was first completed in 1983 by the French, Fauquet and Fine, who retreated from a height of almost 7,000m on the 50 snow slopes below the final rock dome of the Ogre. Hasse had reached a little higher on the same line in 1993.
Shigeru Nagasawa and his five Japanese compatriots from the Kanagawa Himalayan Club were hoping to make the second ascent of the original 1978 British Route on Baintha Brakk (The Ogre) but gave up in August. The individual ages of team members spread from a mere 19 to 56. They were apparently planning to fix up to 3,000m of rope on the mountain.
In 2001, prior to this activity a two-man Italian team of Alois Brugger and Hans Kammerlander was at Base Camp, planning an Alpine style ascent of the Original British Route before Kammerlander moved on to attempt a ski descent of K2. The pair were on the mountain in early June, having established an Advanced Base below the face at 5,000m. Their best shot took them to 6,200m but the weather was unsettled and the route threatened by snow and serac avalanche. They retreated from their high point (below the plateau) on the 21st. A second foray up to Advanced Base on the 24th showed more than half-a-metre of fresh snow lying as low as 5,000m and with time running out, the pair reluctantly decided to dismantle the tent and abandon any further attempts, departing Base Camp the following day.

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Baintha Brakk I (Ogre I) -c7,285m-, South pillar :

The South Pillar was first climbed to the upper snowfields in 1983 by the French, Michel Fauquet and Vincent Fine. This pair continued up towards the summit, reaching an altitude of 7000m (a height that until last year had never been equalled on this line) before bad weather forced them down. The 6,400m top of the South Pillar had been reached three times since, in 1990, '95 and 97 and some near misses achieved in other years, but only the Germans, Lentrodt and Wittmann, in 1990 appear to have continued above with a serious attempt on the summit. After some aid low down on the crest (A2) the pillar gives free climbing with difficulties variously rated from 6a/6b to 7a depending on the quantity of aid used. The well-known Huber brothers from Germany tried the route in 1999, failing to get above 6,000m but reportedly climbing the pillar free to that point.

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Baintha Brakk I (Ogre I) -c7,285m-, Southwest face :

In year 2002, Japanese mountaineers almost succeeded in a new and dangerous route up the South Face but after a bold push on the upper slopes, they were thwarted within a handshake of the top, unable to climb the final 10-15m to the highest point. Since then the Southwest Face has become much more dangerous due to serac activity and, therefore, rarely attempted.

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Baintha Brakk I (l'Ogre) -c7,285m-, North face :

These big North face that we can see well from the Snow Lake is stil a big problem for climbers (still virgin).

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Baintha Brakk I (Ogre I) -c7,285m-, East summit (c7,150m) :

This is a route that has been attempted on numerous occasions from the Choktoi Glacier, the best effort coming in 1991 from the Americans Mike Colombo, Tom Nonis, Steve Potter, Mimi Stone and Brinton Young, who climbed the initial rock pillar at 5.9 and two points of aid, then reached a point c30m below the East Summit before being forced down by a bad storm, which subsequently continued for six days. The route has an objectively dangerous approach to the c5,650m col at its base but once on the pillar the climbing is relatively safe and on sound granite to a large snowfield at around half-height. Above, lies more snow, ice and finally difficult mixed climbing on the south flank.
In 2001, a very strong four-man Slovenian team, comprising Urban Azman, Tomaz Jakofcic, Silvo Karo and Peter Meznar, attempted the unclimbed South East Pillar leading to the virgin East Summit (7150m). The Slovenians arrived at the 4,600m Base Camp in the middle of June and spent the next month attempting the pillar. They managed to climb the difficult 700m rock section above the col and reached a high point of c6,350m at the base of the large snow field but very bad weather drove them down.

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Baintha Brakk I (Ogre I) -c7,285m-, South-East ridge :

The South East Ridge of the Ogre leading to its unclimbed East Summit has been attempted on a number of occasions by various nationalities, with perhaps the best effort coming from the American team of Buhler, Crecelius and MacMillan in 1993 :
With MacNae out of action from the first week due to an unfortunate altercation with a crevasse, Richard Cross, Matt Dickinson, Adam Jackson, Al Powell, Nick Williams and Julian Wood made steady progress in climbing the icefall above the Choktoi Glacier to the col at c5,650m and fixing some of the rock buttress above. The icefall proved particularly difficult and serious. Due to a food shortage caused by raiding ravens, most of the team dropped down to Base Camp on the 7th August, leaving Dickinson and Powell to spend the next four days completing the c700m buttress (British E1 and A2), leaving the difficult sections fixed (thanks to a large cache of new rope abandoned by a previous expedition). On the 12th, as the rest of the team started up from Base Camp, the pair made a summit attempt from the 5,650m col and reached the foot of the final gully (c6,900m) two days later. Above the buttress they followed the diagonal snow ramps and climbed tricky mixed terrain (some Scottish VI) to reach this high point perhaps only one day away from the summit. The gully above looked hard, though certainly feasible but the arrival of a big storm prevented any attempt. The pair sat out two days at their top bivouac before being forced down due to lack of provisions. Two metres of snow fell during the next week and Powell plus Jackson decided to head for home. The rest stayed at the col hoping for an improvement but eventually decided to abandon any further climbing on the 26th. They spent the next three days stripping the route of tentage and fixed rope including a significant amount of gear left by the previous expeditions. The last four members reached Base Camp on the 29th, with Dickinson having spent a remarkable 28 continuous days on the route at or above the col.

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Baintha Brakk II (Ogre II) -6800m-:

In 1981, a three-man Japanese team comprising Noritoshi Isayama, Taihei Kato and Yukio Toji, attempted the South East Pillar. This 800m very steep narrow rock ridge was reached by a 1,000m long icy couloir on the South Flank. It leads to the West Summit, from which the Japanese planned a lengthy traverse of the connecting ridge to the Main Top. Climbing on the pillar in rock boots, they reached c6,400m before retreating.
In 1982, it was the turn of British climbers, Brian Hall, Paul Nunn, Andy Parkin and Al Rouse. They made several attempts on the still unclimbed Ogre II, one of which followed the Japanese attempt. However, just above the exit to the icy gully, Nunn's crampon disintegrated the team retreated.
In 1983, Koreans Han-Gyu & K.Dug-Yong reach the difficult summit of Baintha Brakk II (c6,960m), exposed to icefull dangers coming from the 2 sides of the glacier before the big face (Bowling Alley).
In august 1994, Alexander Huber in a german climbing expedition (leader Mersh) attempt the North ridge down the Ogre II, reaching 6,600m.
The ridge appears to have remained untouched until 2000 when an attempt by Maurizio Giordani's five-member team of accomplished Italian rock-climbers was defeated by a combination of high technical difficulties, lack of time and bad weather. The Italians fixed the approach couloir, placing 15 bolt anchors for rappel. They felt the climb to be very serious and technically difficult, providing a challenging objective to future parties.

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Baintha Brakk II (Ogre II) -c6,960m-, "Death Alley" route:

The approached used by the 1978 Japanese attempt on the Ogre and by the British who attempted Ogre II in 1982 and by the Koreans who eventually climbed the latter in 1983.

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Baintha Brakk III (Ogre III) -c6,960m- :

Maurizio Giordani's five-member team of high standard Italian rock-climbers was defeated by a combination of high technical difficulties, lack of time and bad weather on the South East Ridge of what they refer to as the unclimbed Ogre III. This is the name given by the Italians to the West Summit of Ogre II (6,960m), which in their opinion is a distinct top separated by two or three days' climbing from the Main or Central Summit ascended in 1983 from the northwest by a Korean expedition. The South East Ridge had previously been attempted in 1981 by a three-man Japanese team, that climbed an icy gully on the South Face to reach the steep upper buttress of the ridge. Climbing in rock boots on the upper pillar they reached c6,400m before retreating.
The following year it was the turn of British climbers, Brian Hall, Paul Nunn, Andy Parkin and Al Rouse. They made several attempts on the then unclimbed Ogre II, one of which followed the Japanese attempt. However, just above the exit to the icy gully, Nunn's crampon disintegrated and the team retreated.
Arriving at their 4,400m Base Camp on the Uzun Brakk Glacier in June, the Italian team acclimatized and by the 17th had fixed 1,000m of rope up the approach couloir to a col at the start of the steep rocky section. They found ancient fixed rope and garbage from the Japanese attempt but it is unclear whether they climbed the same gully system or one further to the right. The upper 800m+ pillar is very steep and appears to have a difficult final rock band barring access to the summit slopes. Maurizio Girardi and Emanuele Pellizzari reached a similar high point to the Japanese in 1981 before forced down in a storm. They removed all their equipment from the mountain except for 15 rappel anchors (each a single bolt plus karabiner) in the gully. Later this same pair attempted a new route on the nearby Ogre's Thumb but retreated after five pitches (VII maximum) in a snowstorm. The expedition cleaned the lower glacier of all sorts of rubbish, from abandoned wrapping to shovels and tents, then hired two extra porters to take it all back to Skardu. The South East Ridge of Ogre III is a very serious and technically difficult climb, which will prove a challenging objective to future parties.
In 2000, 34 years old Thomas Huber was back, this time with his partner from the successful new route on Shivling, Iwan Wolf (aged 28), and fellow Swiss, Urs Stöcker (aged 24). The team arrived at Base Camp (4,500m) on the 7th June to find three Americans, Hans Johnstone, photographer Ace Kvale, and Mark Newcomb, already at work on the South Pillar. The atmosphere appears to have been less than cordial and deciding that both teams could not work in harmony on the route, Huber and friends decided to concentrate on the unclimbed Ogre III, for which they also had permission. Their successful ascent, in itself a very major achievement, is reported below.
On the 30th June, as the Swiss-German team was making its summit push on Ogre III, Johnstone and Newcomb, reached the top of the South Pillar (fifth ascent) and bivouacked. On the 1st July they headed up and across the large snow/icefield towards the summit tower but were caught in a snowstorm and retreated. They descended to Base Camp and then left for home. This gave the Swiss-German team a second chance. After a suitable rest the three left their 5,000m Advanced Base (Camp 1) on the 8th July, climbed the 300m couloir to the notch on the pillar crest (which they found more dangerous from stonefall than on previous occasions) and fixed 10 pitches, including the crux, which Huber, now well-acclimatized, was able to redpoint at VIII+. Next day Stöcker and Wolf fixed rope to the proposed site of Camp 2 at 5,900m, where they established a portaledge. A bad storm now moved in, the climbers retreated and subsequently were unable to regain the portaledge until the 18th. On the 19th Huber, Stöcker and Wolf climbed eight more pitches and established the portaledge (Camp 3) at 6,200m. The following day they reached the top of the pillar in five more slabby pitches and then climbed the icy crest above to make Camp 4 (a bivouac under the portaledge fly) at c6,500m. To the end of the rock section they had climbed 26 roped pitches. A 2am start on the 21st saw the three climbers ascending rightwards across the giant snow/ice field, reaching its apex at 8.30am. In strengthening winds they tackled the summit buttress, following the line taken in 1977 by Bonington and Scott. Difficult mixed ground led to the three hard rock pitches, on which the Alpinists discovered old pegs and confirmed the grade as VI and A2, with a long and tricky pendulum. Huber was impressed by the climbing, which although by today's standards would not be considered very hard, took place in parallel sided cracks eminently suitable for Friends which, of course, were not available to the original ascensionists. The three reached the highest point at 3.30am and on the following day rappeled 800m down the South Pillar to arrive safely back on the glacier by mid-afternoon.

To the same topics:
Himalaya du Cachemire Hindu Raj : Description géographique Hindu Kush : Description géographique
Cartes géographiques du Cachemire
Images satellites du Cachemire Statistiques géographiques Index géographique

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