Géographie du Cachemire
& CHARAKUSA AREA - page 2/3 -
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Chogolisa (Bride Peak) -c7,665m-
Chogolisa (Bride Peak) -c7,665m- North Est summit
Chogolisa (Bride Peak), -c7,654m- South Est summit
Denbor Brakk -c4,700m- (Nangma valley)
Depak -c7,150m-

Drifika (Drefekal/The Ghost home) -c6,447m-
Drifika (Drefekal) -c6,447m-, North face
Father Peak -c5,500m- (Nangma valley)
Fathi Brakk –c5,400m (c5,600m) (Khridas valley)
Ghent group -7000/7401m-
Ghent I –-c7,401m-
Ghent II -c7,342m-
Ghent III -c7,000m-
Gulam tower -c4,710m- (Hushe valley)
Gutum Talji -c5,500m- (Nangma valley)
Ibrahim Brakk -c5,200m- (Homboro valley)
Ibrahim Brakk -c5,200m-, «Azad Kashmir» line (Khridas valley)
Iqbal wall (Khridas valley)

K6 - c7,281m
K7 -c6,934m-
K7 -c6934m-, South face
K7 -c6934m-, South East summit
K7 -c6973m-, South west ridge
Kaberi Peak -c7,000m-
Kapura -c6,544m-
King Brakk -c4,900m- (Khridas valley)
Kondus Peak -c6,756m-

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Available maps of Charakusa & Kondus areas :

Chogolisa (Bride Peak) -c7,665m- :

Chogolisa is one of the highest mountains of central Karakoram and form an impressive trapezoid comprising 2 summits (North-eastern summit - c7,654m., South-western summit - c7,665m) and 4 ridges. First, Martin Conway explored the area who was very impressive by this white pyramid of snow christened " Bride Peak " (mean the wife of K2 just opposite, a pretty couple!). The mortals veils of Chogolisa as unreal whiteness are where disappeared H.Buhl in 1957 on a cornice on the North-eastern ridge around c7,100 m, without rope and and blind by a thick fog whereas he climbed the top with K.Diemberger. Climbing Chogolisa is one of the easiest climb of Karakoram, but this tragedy shows that even the best climbers ones can make big errors. Martin Conway try the first to climb the summit (three times without success), attempts continue in 1909 with Louis Amédée of Savoy, duke of Abruzzi, J.Petigax, H. and A. Brocherel of Courmayeur which make a challenging climb until in 1922: all the difficulties crossed about c7,400 m, they turn back in a thick fog at 250 meters down the top.

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Chogolisa (Bride Peak) -c7,665m- North Est summit:

The 4 August, 1958, Japanese K.Hirai &. Fujihira try to reach the top again but didn't go beyond the North-eastern summit (c7,654m) completing an exploration started in 1892 by Martin Conway. 2 French climbers died in 1986 during a sky descent from the top.

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Chogolisa (Bride Peak), -c7,654m- South Est summit :

The first climb of the South-western top was made by Austrians G.Ammerer and A.Pressl by the Western edge in 1975; the second time , by B.Aucher French, P.Dubois, J.M.Galmiche and E.Monier by the Southern edge in 1984. In 1986, the british L.Elliot, A. Fanshawe, H.Irvine and S.Lamb made the first traverse between the 2 summits, from West to East, and finished by the North-eastern summit.

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Denbor Brakk -c4,700m- (Nangma valley) :

British womens Libby Peter and Thomas also climbed another small peak, which they named Denbor (4,700m). They reached the top via a line they named the Gentian Traverse (PD). Later they explored the glacier below (and south of) Drifika and reached a 5,600m col at its foot.

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Depak -c7,150m- :

This summit was climbing by an internationnal expedition (Germany, british & pakistani team) in 1960. Not many informations about this mountain.

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Drifika (Drefekal/Ghost home) -c6,447m- :

Drifika (Drefekal) rise up in one of the most remote area of Karakoram range, that make it charming. It is a fine and perfect snow pyramid situated south of the Charakusa Glacier (east of the Hushe Valley) between south Nika Peak (6325m), near Chogolisa mountains (7665m), K6 (7281m), K7 (6934m), Link Sar (7041m), christened the peak by japanese first climb after talking to local villagers who referred to it as " Drefekal " or the Home of Ghosts

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Drifika (Drefekal) -c6,447m-, North face :

Six climbers from Akiya Ishimura's Japanese expedition first reached the summit via the North Ridge in 1978.. It is a fine snow pyramid situated south of the Charakusa Glacier (east of the Hushe Valley) and the Italians established four camps on their approach to the elegant upper ridge, the last at c5,850m. The climb was reported to be technically straightforward with the last 500m a moderate 50° snow/ice climb. The team did, however, fix 200m of rope on a section of the route at c5,000m but climbed the peak in a round trip of only 20 days from Islamabad.
The team was led by 56 years old Angelo Rusconi, a former well-known Bregaglia activist and comprised a blend of youth and maturity. The two summiteers, who repeated the route of the first ascensionists up the North Ridge, were Luciano Gimpa and Simone Rossetti, both 27 years old. Fifty seven years old Gino Hora is reported to have stopped only c100m below the summit. Rusconi applied for the peak in 1997 but was refused permission.

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Father Peak -c5,500m- (Nangma valley) :

At the beginning of 1999, Andrew Mc Cauley, Ned Norton, Paul Weber et Vera Wong climbed the Father Peak (5500m) (second attempt).

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Fathi Brakk -c5,400m (c5,600m) (Khridas valley) :

From early July to mid August Americans, Jimmy Chin, Evan Howe, Brady Robinson, plus Doug and Jed Workman established three new rock routes in the Charakusa Valley. From the K7 Base Camp a high camp was first placed between Fathi Brakk and Parhat Brakk (c5,400m/c5,600m). From this camp Chin and Robinson made the second ascent of Fathi Brakk (the Charakusa Tower, quoted as 5,600m but possibly c200m lower) via a route on the slender North Face. The 21-pitch climb, which followed the north west rock and snow gully to gain a prominent diedre splitting the upper half of the face, was rated 5.10+, A3 and WI4+. However, the overriding difficulty, according to the Americans, was loose rock. The summit of this impressive granite spire was first climbed in July 1998 by Italians, Maurizio Giordani, Luca Maspes and Natale Villa via the West North West Face at 5.10+ and A3.

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Ghent group -c7,000/c7,401m- :

Ghent I -c7,401m- :

First climb by a an austrian team in 1961 (Erich Waschak, Wolfgang Axt).

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Ghent II -c7,342m- :

Wolfgang Axt (Autrichien) came back on this summit in 1977.

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Ghent III -c7,000m- :

[To complete]

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Gulam tower -c4,710m- (Hushe valley) :

In the early part of summer 1997, a four man team from Northern Italy added another worthwhile rock route to this fine granite playground. Riccardo Milani, Adriano Selva, Andrea Spandri and Natale Villa made the first ascent of a 4,710m rock spire on the west bank of the Gondokoro Glacier, roughly opposite Balti and Cholon peaks. The four climbers more or less followed the left edge of the face overlooking the glacier in c15 pitches.
Although for the most part difficulties were reasonable yet sustained on excellent granite (V to VI), the crux gave a pitch of VII and A3 with some tricky hooking. The spire was christened the "Ghulam"and the 650m route, rated Alpine TD+, named Giorgio Lorenzo. No bolts were placed and future parties should carry 10 pegs of various sizes, plus a comprehensive rack of wires and Friends.

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Gutum Talji -c5,500m- (Nangma valley) :

On the 8th August the team attempted Gutum Talji (c5,500m) to the south of the Yain Hisk Glacier. Stacey and Scott tried the steep North West Face but were forced to retreat due to warm conditions and associated rockfall. Meanwhile Goodwin, Gouws and Thompson had reached the crest of the West Ridge via the South Fork of the Yain Hisk Glacier, climbing a dangerous gully to reach a c500m section of 60 water ice leading to a saddle on the ridge. The crest of the ridge was then followed over snow and easy angled rock to the top (the peak has several summits). Descent followed the same route and was carried out in deteriorating conditions.

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Ibrahim Brakk -c5,200m- (Homboro valley) :

Lanfranchi and Maspes visited the nearby Homboro Valley and succeeded on a previously virgin summit they christened Ibrahim's Peak. The ascent was made in one day and involved 450m of climbing over mixed terrain and friable rock with difficulties up to VI-.

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Ibrahim Brakk -c5,200m-, Azad Kashmir route (Khridas valley) :

The North American trio of Nils Davis (USA), Sean Isaac (Canada) and Todd Offenbacher (USA) made the first ascent of a previously unnamed granite spire in the Khridas Valley, the next valley north of the increasingly popular Nangma Valley in the Hushe region. The North American team explored the potential during July but although discovering many virgin towers and spires, found the rock for the most part to be badly exfoliating. However, on the 18th July they were able to make the first ascent of a c5,200m spire, which they named Ibrahim Brakk after their Balti cook. The route took the South Ridge, a striking arête up a pyramid-shaped peak in a group of spires north of the glacier and approximately two hours' walk above their Base Camp. The 700m route began with slabby climbing but steepened to the summit headwall. On the first 300m the climbers moved simultaneously and pitched only the upper 400m. They succeeded in making a light and fast ascent in one day, climbing with only one rope and a standard rack. Many of the slab pitches were found to be very poorly protected and the last pitch nearly defeated the team. However, Davis was able to pull out a fine lead, overcoming loose ground and crumbling flakes with only marginal gear to complete a pitch of 5.10+ and arrive on the summit one hour before dark. The climbers, who were carrrying no bivouac equipment, then made a rappel descent through the night, leaving behind half their rack. No bolts or pegs were used and the route was christened " Azad Kashmir " (" free Kashmir ", 700m: V 5.10+R).

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Iqbal wall (Khridas valley) :

Rowell teamed up with two members from a small Italian team, the Lecco-based climbers Gianluca Maspes and Natale Villa. Together these three made the first ascent of Iqbal's Wall, a steep c320m corner system with difficulties up to 5.10d, which lies on a rocky ridge between K7 Base Camp and K7. The wall is just inside the glacier valley facing the huge 1,700m high wall of K7 and the line climbed follows the obvious clean diedre on the left side. Details of the routes climbed by the Italian team, which is thought to have also included the Dolomite specialist, Maurizio Giordani, are not yet known.

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K6 - c7,281m :

The Northern face of K6 is as beautifull as Baintha Brakk (Ogre) or Latok. The unique ascent of this wonderfull summit was accomplissed by Edi Koblmüller. Edi Koblmüller first visited Pakistan in 1970 when he made the first ascent of the very difficult K6 (7,281m) from the Nangma Glacier. This excellent climber followed this with new routes on Cho Oyu in 1978, Batura I in 1983, after which he went on to make a fast Alpine style ascent of the Schell Route on the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat, reaching the summit alone, the first ascent of Rakaposhi East in 1985 and later ascents of several other 8,000m peaks.

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K7 -c6,934m- :

2 British teams, in 1990 and 1993, try a direct line on the big walls of the South West ridge, highst point at 6300m after 32 days of hard work in the shadonws of the Link sar : without success.

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K7 -c6,934m-, South face :

An american team (Conrad Anker, Jimmy et Brady Robinson) climbed on the south face of K7 (6934m). Exhausted by 15 days on the wall, leaving in a portaledge, they went back without food. 3 cmaps for the attempt, the highest at 6100m.

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K7 -c6,973m-, South West Ridge:

Deux cordées britanniques, en 1990 et 1993, ont tenté une ligne directe sur les tours de roche de l'arête Sud Ouest, atteignant 6300m après 32 jours passés sur la montagne à l'ombre du Link Sar : sans succès.

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Kaberi Peak -c7,000m- :

Ce sommet semble avoir été atteint en 1958.
Peu d'informations sur ce sommet.

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Kondus Peak -c6,756m- :

This summit was climb the first time by a japanese expedition in 1958, the 3 of august.

To the same topics:
Himalaya du Cachemire Hindu Raj : Description géographique Hindu Kush : Description géographique
Cartes géographiques du Cachemire
Images satellites du Cachemire Statistiques géographiques Index géographique

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