Géographie du Cachemire
HINDU RAJ RANGE
- page 2/2 -
Imprimer cette page
Document PDF
 

Dhuli Chhish group-6531m-
Dhuli Chhish Nord-Ouest ~6400m-
Kampur (Dhiang) -5499m
Kampur (Dhiang) -5499m, face Nord Ouest
Kerun Peak -~6200m-
Khan Sar -5708m-
Koe waram (Koe warham) – ~6600m-
Koyo Zom -6872m-
Koz Sar -6677m-
Kutshkulin Sar (Sax Sar) -5900/6000m-
Lupsuk Sar -5645m-
Makutchum -6191m-
Nashran -5200m-
Pashchoshi -5508m-
Rinzho Zom -6100m-
Sahan Sar (Shan Sar) -5200m-
Shahan Dok -6320m-
Shayaz -6055m-
Thui Zom Group -6661m/6523m-
Thui Zom I -6661m-
Thui Zom II -6523m-
Tutaneki -5415m-
Uddin Zom -6010m-
Ulumeshpathi -6175m-
Vicum Sar II -5640m-
Windok -6135m-


Carte de l'Hindu Raj
(45 ko)
Cartes américaines U502
36 US map U502
(1:250 000)

(76 ko)
Cartes russes 1942
Soviets map
(1:500 000
)
(30 ko)

Dhuli Chhish group -~6400/6518m-

The first ascent of Dhuli Chhish (c6,531m) actually took place on the 18th September 1973 when it was climbed from Nialthi via the West Face and South Ridge by the Italians, C Platter, S Riz and L Vaia. The Italians three made three camps followed by a bivouac at c6,200m.
A French expedition comprising three young and talented Alpinists (Delevaux, Gervaise and Laurent) were unsuccessful on the 2,000m high mixed North Face of Dhuli Chish (6,531m). The team was one of the last to arrive in Pakistan, only starting for their mountain in early September. Dhuli Chish lies west of the Darkot Valley north of Yasin and is reported to have been first climbed in the early 70s by a Swiss expedition via the relatively straightforward southern flanks.

Haut de page Bas de page

Dhuli Chhish North-West -~6400m-:

Valley in the north of the village of Draskin to the base camp. The access to the base camp is done in a long day of walk from the village of Draskin. 7 hours of walk and 1000 meters of uneven to the base camp with 3600m of altitude. The outward journey with the base camp and the return occurred very well and the recruitment of the carriers did not pose a problem.
A priori no easy way leads to the top. Complex northern face. The principal objective was the first rise of Dhuli Chhish north-western. The rise of Dhuli north-western chhish quickly proved to be a very ambitious objective some is the selected route. This superb mountain offers 3 edges of high difficulty and 3 faces complex. The north-western face is very exposed with the falls of seracs. The most possible route certainly is the northern edge, splendid objective but which requires a rise in return ticket on a technical edge with several rock bastions and the whole on uneven of more than 2500m. We did not carry out of attempt on this mountain.

Haut de page Bas de page

Kampur (Dhiang) -5499m-

This previously virgin peak lies north of Ishkoman overlooking the Mathantir Valley. It was first noted (and reportedly christened) by Italians, though the local name is thought to be Dhiang. Its fine North West Face was noted by Bernard Domenech during his 1998 travels in the area as part of a reconnaissance for the 1999 UIAA International Camp organized by the FFME. A picture of the face appeared on the FFME website (www.expe.com) but the peak was photographed by Schomberg as long ago as the 1930s and appears in the 1935 Alpine Journal.

During September 2001, Americans, Pete Linkroum, Chad McFadden and Jacob Moore planned to attempt a new route on Kampur (5,499m), north of Ghotuti in the Ishkomen Valley. After establishing an Advanced Base below the peak, poor weather moved in. On the 17th, after almost a week in their tents, they decided to return to Base Camp to await better conditions and while on the descent were somewhat surprised to find a couple of porters coming up to meet them. Details of the 11th September atrocities were subsequently conveyed by their Sirdar, who felt it best for the American's safety that they left the country immediately. In fact he had already started to make arrangements and the three were soon enduring a fraught drive back to Islamabad, where in a few days their agent was able to book them on a plane home.

Haut de page Bas de page

Kampur (Dhiang) -5499m, face Nord Ouest

En 2000, après avoir abandonné l'idée d'atteindre la cime du Singu Charpu dans la vallée de Nangma près de Hushe, l'Américain Carlos Buhler, et le Russe Ivan Durashin ont voyagé dans l'Indou Raj et ont fait la première ascension du Kampur (5499m) par la face Nord Ouest de 1500m. Après un bivouac au pied du Wall, ils sont monté par la nervure centrale en rocher jusqu'à l'arête Nord Ouest. Ils ont atteint le sommet à 19 heures, appréciant beaucoup les longueurs en terrain mixte.
On rapporte également que Buhler et Durashin ont fait plusieurs autres ascensions dans le secteur.

En 2001, Peter Linkroum, Chad McFadden et Jacob Moore ont tenté un nouvel itinéraire sur le Kampur (5499m). Après l'établissement d'un camp de base avancée au-dessous du sommet, Le mauvais temps arriva. Le 17 septembre, après coincés presque une semaine dans des leurs tentes, ils ont décidé de retourner au camp de base pour attendre de meilleures conditions météo tandis qu'à la descente, ils ont été étonnés de trouver des porteurs montant pour les rencontrer. Le détail des atrocités du 11 septembre ont été plus tard donnés par leur Sirdar, qui était inquiet pour la sûreté des Américains. Ils plièrent aussitôt bagage.

Haut de page Bas de page

Kerun Peak -~6200m-

Unhappy attempt of the Kerun peak by Constant Walfroy (French) in 2006.

Haut de page Bas de page

Khan Sar -c5,708m-

In August, Tom Gleeson and Graham Rowbotham (Canadian), Bryan Godfrey and Jock Jeffery (New Zealanders) and Peter Ford and Simon Woods (British) visited an unnamed glacier basin above the village of Borth in the Ishkoman Valley. As normal during the climbing season, access via the Ishkoman Valley proved problematic due to widespread seasonal flooding but eventually the party were able to establish a c3,600m Base Camp at a summer pasture named Doaw Jrabe. The party first attempted an unnamed 5,708m peak but were forced to retreat when a tent at their 4,800m camp was hit by a large boulder, resulting in a fractured arm for the occupant, Tom Gleeson.
Following Gleeson's evacuation to Gilgit, the team made another attempt and on the 24th were successful in reaching the summit via an ascent of the East Face. Three camps were made above base and although the upper section of the face was found to be badly avalanche prone, a stable line was eventually discovered leading directly to the summit. The peak was christened Khan Sar after the expedition cook.

Haut de page Bas de page

Koe waram (Koe warham) - ~6600m

This foreign summit is maybe in the Wharan Corridor between Tajikistan and Pakistan, maybe on the Afghan border at the bottom of the Amoudaria valley. This summit at about 6600 m approximately would have been climbed by Mermet Maurice (France) in 1969.

Haut de page Bas de page

Koyo Zom -6872m-

First ascent probably by the Northern face. Unhappy attempt by Constant Walfroy (French) on a secondary summit (Kerun Peak) before the project of an attempt on Koyo Zom summit.

Haut de page Bas de page

Koz Sar -6677m-

First ascent by the Southern face (Japanese cord: Takashi Ota, Katsuyuki Kuriyagawa).

Haut de page Bas de page

Kutshkulin Sar (Sax sar) -5900/6000m-

New route traced in 1999 on this mountain forgotten by a Danish team.

Haut de page Bas de page

Lupsuk Sar -5645m-

A great expedition (28 members) of the Italian Alpine Club (Leader Franco Brunello) visited the area in July and August 1997. Ascension by the same Italian team by the South face (friable rock up to IV)

Haut de page Bas de page

Makutchum -6191m-

Benoit Drouillat from France and Asmus Norreslet from Denmark together with Kiss and Pellissier, all four residents of Chamonix, made a concerted effort on the 17th-18th to climb the East Ridge of Makutchum, an unvisited 6,191m summit. After climbing a 650m couloir (AD: 45°) on the South Flank of the ridge, the four followed the crest, negotiating many sections of 5 and 5+. However, they eventually had to admit defeat at c5,850m after 12 pitches and 350m of height gain from the couloir exit, due to route finding difficulties on the very poor rock. Later, with the two Czechs, Drouillat and Norreslet made another attempt, reaching a similar high point before having to retreat in bad weather. The overall difficulty was rated at TD+.

Haut de page Bas de page

Nashran -5200m

In 2007, the Nashran ascent which, although not culminating at 5200m more offer 16h go/back climb by Eric and Didier. A large corridor of stiff ice until 70° occupied a good part of this time. The climb start since a bivouac at 4400 meters high.

Haut de page Bas de page

Pashchoshi 5508m

This ridge was first climbed in 1975 by Geoff Cohen and George Gibson from the UK, who found it a straightforward snow plod.
Sebastian Darmach from Poland, Viktor Grichtchenko, a guide from the Ukraine attempted the previously climbed North Ridge of Pashchoshi (5,508m) and reached the top on the 23rd (600m: AD) in 1999.

Haut de page Bas de page

Rinzho Zom -6100m-

The Rinzho Zom is southwest of Buni Zom in the Hindu Raj, separated by the valley of Phargam Gol (gol for "valley"). He did not seem to be climbed.

Haut de page Bas de page

Sahan Sar (Shan Sar) -5200m-

In August, Tom Gleeson and Graham Rowbotham (Canadian), Bryan Godfrey and Jock Jeffery (New Zealanders) and Peter Ford and Simon Woods (British) visited an unnamed glacier basin above the village of Borth in the Ishkoman Valley. As normal during the climbing season, access via the Ishkoman Valley proved problematic due to widespread seasonal flooding but eventually the party were able to establish a c3,600m Base Camp at a summer pasture named Doaw Jrabe.
The five climbers then attempted a second peak west of Khan Sar. Two camps were made, the highest at 5,000m, and the summit reached via the accommodating slopes of the North Face leading to a final, heavily corniced ridge. This peak was christened Shan Sar after the expedition;s second cook and estimated to have an altitude of c5,500m. A subsequent attempt on a peak in an adjacent valley, approached by crossing the East Flank of Sahan Sar at a height of around 5,200m, had to be abandoned, when the proposed descent couloir into the neighbouring valley was judged too dangerous

Haut de page Bas de page

Shahan Dok -6320m-

This summit is on left bank of Yarkhun, to forty kilometers in the North of Mastuj. Suumit push by the Japanese M.Nebuka, J.Tanaka and Y.Yoneyama Shahan Dok in 1988 by the east ridge..

Haut de page Bas de page

Shayaz -6055m-

Shayaz is on other bank of Yarkhun and fact face in Win Dok and Sahan Dok. the architecture of this top is very impressive.

Haut de page Bas de page

Thui Zom Group -6661m/6523m-

This peak with a formidable North Face was probably first noticed by a Japanese party in 1967, unsuccessfully attempted by a Swiss party in 1975, while completely deterring a very competent British pair in 1979. A large group from the Camp explored the southern approaches to a col on the West Ridge but found the glacier extremely complex and were also deterred from making any further progress on this impressive, well-guarded rocky peak.

Haut de page Bas de page

Thui Zom I -6661m-

Sébastien Montaz-Rosset, Hervé Qualizza and Greg Sauget climbed a difficult route to the top of the first tower on the North North West Ridge of the main summit. The 1,200m route was climbed in 26 pitches with bivouacs above pitches 14, 20 and at the top of the route below a series of giant snow mushrooms. There was mixed terrain, ice pitches up to 5 (90°) and pure rock difficulties of 6a. The overall grade was given a modern VII. The trio completed their route in a storm and elected to descend the far side of the ridge via a deep ice couloir. This descent turned into something of an epic, with the climbers pummelled by avalanches while rappeling from less than perfect belays. However, they successfully returned to Base unscathed.

Haut de page Bas de page

Thui Zom II -6523m- :

[To complete]

Haut de page Bas de page

Tutaneki -5415m-

The Fourth UIAA International Camp took place during September 2000 in the region north of Nialthi and west of the Thui Gol. Organized by the FFME and under the overall leadership of the young French guide, Manu Pellissier, the Camp was attended by 21 young climbers representing Canada, the Czech Republic, Denmark, France, Germany, Great Britain, Hungary, Ireland, Italy, Pakistan, Poland, Slovenia, South Africa and New Zealand.
Argo and Wesley climbed a fine line, when from the 12th-13th they made the first ascent of the shapely Tutaneki (5,415m) to the west of Base Camp. The 1,200m Mordor's Couloir (45° steepening to 65° at the exit) was climbed with one bivouac. This southwest-facing couloir reached the summit ridge left of the highest point. From there four pitches of rock, with one short steep section, led to the top. Later, Benoit Drouillat from France and Asmus Norreslet from Denmark together with Kiss and Pellissier, all four residents of Chamonix, climbed the route in an 18-hour round trip from Base Camp, rappelling the rocks on the left of the couloir to avoid afternoon stonefall.

Haut de page Bas de page

Uddin Zom -6010m-

A four-man Anglo-New Zealand team comprising Phil Amos, Adam Thomas, Simon Woods (all UK) and Jock Jeffery (NZ) made the first ascent of 6,010m Uddin Zom in the Matkesh/Ochiri Valley (South Western Hindu Raj). In all, three attempts were made on the West Face to North Ridge; a 1,200m route of Alpine D- (80ø). The team was defeated on its first two attempts by heavy snowfall at the 5,430m high camp but the final attempt took place in good conditions from the 27th-31st July after a week spent at Base Camp in almost constant rain.
From their Advanced Base the climbers regained their high camp on the 29th, reached the summit on the 30th and returned to Base Camp (one rappel and downclimbing) the following day. The four had previously reached Base Camp in one day from the roadhead and were almost certainly the first climbers to explore the Matkesh/Ochiri Valley. They named their peak after a local goatherd, on whose summer pasture they pitched Base Camp. In a somewhat curious incident the expedition was visited by two policemen, who had made a rain-soaked two-day walk to Base Camp after receiving a report that two of the climbers had been killed. The police soon left for an equally wet return journey, with both parties none the wiser.

Haut de page Bas de page

Ulumeshpathi -6175m

[To complete]

Haut de page Bas de page

Vicum Sar II -5640m

In 1997, Italian ascent by the same team of Ana Sar first ascent (see this chapître). Ascent by the Northern edge Is (55°) and back by the northern face (60°).

Haut de page Bas de page

Windok -6135m-

This summit is on left bank of Yarkhun, to forty kilometers in the North of Mastuj. Italians E.Carvilleri, F.Cravino, M.Lopriore and A.Pinelli climbed Win Dok in 1965 by its North-western edge (3 camps).

Haut de page Bas de page


Haut de page
To the same topics :
Cartes géographiques du Cachemire
Images satellites du Cachemire
Himalaya du Cachemire
Massif du karakoram au Cachemire Hindu Raj : Description géographique Statistiques géographiques Index géographique

Révision 0 06/04/05 (http://blankonthemap.free.fr)


Home - History - Geography - local life - Travelling - Forums - Gallery - Links - Index

var pagename='Page_climbing1'; For more details, contact the Webmaster.