Géographie du Cachemire
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Batura glacier
Batura group -c7,280m (c,6638m)/c7,795m-
Batura I (Peak 32) -c7,795m (c7,786m)-, face Nord
Batura I (Peak 32) -c7,795m (c7,786m)-, face Sud
Batura II (Peak 31 / Hunza Kunji ) -c7,762m (c7,594m)-
Batura III (Peak 35) -c7,729m-
Batura IV (Ouest Peak) -c7,594m-
Batura V (Muchu Chhish/East Peak/Mush Muztagh) -c7,453m (c7,331m)-
Batura V Est (Muchu Chhish Est, Mush Muztagh Est) -c7,280m (c6,638m)-
Batura VI (Far East Peak) -c7,594m-
Bojohagur Duanasir (Peak 34/Hunza Peak) -c7,329m-
Bubulimating (Bubulimotin) -c6,000m-
Bubulimating (Bubulimotin) -c6,000m-, couloir Nord Ouest
Bubulimating (Bubulimotin) -c6,000m-, face Nord Ouest
Bubulimating (Bubulimotin) -c6,000m-, crête Nord Est
Bubulimating (Bubulimotin) -c6,000m-, face Ouest
Batokshe (Batokshi/Saddle Peak) -c6,000m-
Charikand -c5,888m-
Dawson Peak
Dedo de Galupour (c5,100m)
Ghenta Peak -c7,090m-
Gutum Talji - c5,500m-
Hachindar Chhish -c7,163m (c6,870m)-
Jurju Khona Sar -c6,055m-
Kampire Dior -c7,143m-
Karun koh -c7,350 m-
Khaitar peak, -c5,591m- (vallée de Naltar)
Koz Sar -c6,677m-
Kuk Sar -c6,943m-
Kuk Sar -c6,925m-
Kutshkulin Sar -c5,900m-
Kutshkulin Sar II (Sax sar) -c6,000m-
Kuti Dorkush -c5,900m-
Nico Sar -c5,800m-
Pamri Sar -c7,016m-
Pamri Sar II -c6,928m-
Passu group -c7,284/c7,500m-
Passu Peak (Passu Diar, Peak 55 ) -c7,295m-
Passu Peak (Passu Diar, Peak 55), sommet Est -c7,284m-
Passu Peak (Passu Diar, peak 55), sommet Ouest -c7,500m-
Passu Sar (Passu Dome) -c7,478m-
Passu Sar II (Passu Dome II) -c7,295m-
Pute towers (~c5,800m)
Third Tower -c5,800m-
Sakar Sar -c6,272m -
Sangemarmar Sar -c6,949m (c7,050m)-
Sani Pakush -c6,885m-
First & second tower
Third tower
Shani Peak -c5,800m- (Naltar valley)
Shani Peak -c5,800m-, sommet Est
Shani Peak -c5,800m-, sommet Sud Est
Shispare -c7,611m-
Snow Dome -c5,322m- (Sentinel Peak – Vallée de Naltar)
Sumaiyer Peak -c5,520m-
Tpopdan Sar -c6,106m-
Ultar Peak (Death Peak) -c7,388m-
Ultar (Death Peak) -c7,388m, pilier Sud Est
Ya Chhish (c5,130m)
Yeti Sar -c5,980m-

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The Western area of the Karakoram range is one of the less remote but one of the most interesting. Karakoram is growing In a fantastic surge to its west side, a complex zone of very high summits whose name was christened " the Wall " or the " high Batura Plateau", an incredible high icecap, prolonged by the Passu Sar (7478m), Shispar (7611m), Bojohagur Duanasir (7329m) and Kampir Dior (7168m). Not far to the West, the wild mountains of Hindu Raj growing between Karakoram and Hindu Kush.
In the East part of Karakoram, the Baltoro attract 80 % of visitors whereas the majority of the range remainder terra incognita, Batura Muztagh and adjacents zones (Batura glacier upstream) is one of the strongest potential of virgin summits.

Here joint maps of the areas :

Image satellite du massif de Batura
Satellite image
(47 ko)

Batura glacier :

By its size (56 km length, 2,5 km broad and 220 km2), Batura glacier can be compare with Hispar, Biafo and Baltoro glaciers. The final part of the glacier is highly dangerous: its surge, jerked and rapid is dangerous for the Karakoram Highway and the access to the Khunjerab Pass and push back the Hunza river against its left bank with the risk to close it.

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Batura group - 7280m (6638m)/7795m- :

After 2 days of walk toward the upper Batura glacier that is possible to see the impressive wall of Batura. This wall decorated by unamed summits (c7,400/c7,581m points) is capted by 200 meters of ice from where immense icebergs are falling down into 3000 meters in a great thunderous noise in the empty air.
Seven simmits of the Batura wall are over 7000m high. The Batura I is the Highest of the Goup (c7,786m).

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Batura I (Peak 32) -c7,795m-, North face :

In 1959, britishs Keith Wartburton, Richard Knight, Harry Stephenson, and germans Martin Günnel et Albert Hirschbichler disapear in a big avalanche in the north face of batura I: Some of the expedtion saw them at about 7,300m high.

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Batura I (Peak 32) -c7,795m- (c7,786m), South face :

After the tragic consequences to Keith Warburton's British-German expedition attempting the dangerous north flank of the mountain in 1959, Batura I was first climbed in 1976 by Hubert Bleicher and Herbert Oberhofer (who two years earlier had made the first ascent of neighbouring Shispare) from a German Alpine Club expedition. The team approached the Batura Col from the east branch of the Baltar Glacier, then crossed the 5,900m Batokshi Pass before climbing up the South Face to the East Ridge not far from the east and highest top. Five camps were established on the route.
The second ascent, via a different route on the South Face to that followed by the Germans, was achieved by an Austrian expedition in 1983. One of the four summiteers was Edi Koblmüller, who appears elsewhere in the text. Koblmüller was responsible for the first ever serious high-altitude winter climbing in the Karakoram, when he attempted the same line on Batura I in 1981, reaching 6,300m before having to give up on the 22nd February in persistent bad weather and serious avalanche danger.
In 1988 a Polish-German team (Zygmunt Heinrich, Pawel Kubalski and Volker Stallbohm, the latter rescued last year from Nanga Parbat; see INFO 207) repeated this route, and the mountain had a fourth ascent from the Muchuhar Glacier in 1996.
En 1999, a five-member expedition led by 67 years old Atsushi Inenaga was attempting to put the first climbers from Japan on the summit of 7,786m Batura I in the West Karakoram. Tragically, they met with disaster during early August while making an attempt on the rarely climbed South Face. After approaching from Aliabad via the c30km long Muchuhar Glacier, the team made its Base Camp at around 4,000m. While the leader remained there, the other four, 27 years old Yasunobu Fujita, 29 years old Tsuyoshi Seki, 44 years old Hirotaka Sugiyama and 46 years old Wataru Takasaki, began to open the route. After establishing Camp 3 at around 6,500m the first three climbers left for a summit attempt, Wataru having returned to Camp 1 due to injury. Inenaga was monitoring progress with binoculars from Base Camp, when the climbers radioed to say that the weather was deteriorating and they would be coming back down. Not long after he witnessed an avalanche sweep the face and carry the three climbers some 1,200m. The two remaining members descended to the town of Aliabad on the Karakoram Highway where they initiated a helicopter search. Unfortunately, poor weather prevented any flights and the proposed search was eventually abandoned. Sugiyama had climbed Everest by the North Ridge in 1996 while Inenaga was leader of the Japanese expedition that made the fourth ascent (by a new route) of Kanjiroba in 1979 and on which Takasaki was one of the successful summit party.

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Batura II (Peak 31 / Hunza Kunji ) -c7,762m (c7,594m)-:

A six-man team from the Saxon Alpine Club of Germany made a spirited attempt on the unclimbed Batura II (7,762m), one of the highest unclimbed points remaining in the Karakoram. Tilo Dittrich, Günter Jung, Jan Lettke, Tom Niederlein, Christian and Markus Walter set up Base Camp on the Baltar Glacier in June and followed the route of the first ascensionists of 7,786m Batura I. In 1976 a German Alpine Club expedition penetrated the Eastern Baltar Glacier to the south of the peak and climbed up to the Batokshi Pass (c5,900m) on the ridge running north from Hachindar Chish. In the process they climbed the 6,050m Batokshi (or Saddle Peak). Above the col the ridge fades into the steep upper slopes of the high Batura Group and the team set out across the South Face of the main peak. After establishing five camps above Base, Hubert Bleicher and Herbert Oberhofer, who just two years previously had made the first ascent of neighbouring Shispare, climbed the final 40-45° snow slopes and reached the summit on the 30th June. Batokshi Peak (Saddle Peak) was climbed again in July 1996 by a small international group that made the largely Alpine style fourth ascent of Batura I via the German Route.
The 2002 Saxon expedition crossed the rubble-covered Baltar Glacier to an Advanced Base at 4,250m and established Camp 1 towards the end of June at 5,240m. To reach the site of Camp 2 they had to climb through a narrow and dangerous couloir, dubbed the Gunbarrel by the 1976 German team, which squeezed through a small gap between a rock wall and large serac barrier. Camp 2 was placed at c5,800m on the 2nd June and shortly after, Camp 3 above the Batokshi Pass. The team took around 250m of fixed rope and placed most of it on this section. On the 15th July several team members were situated at Camp 4 (6,560m) on the South Face of Batura II, somewhat left of the German line, preparing for a summit assault the following day.
Generally the weather had been very mixed with frequent snowfall but on the 16th the day dawned gloriously and Jung with the two Walter brothers set off at 3.30am. The snow conditions seemed reasonably acceptable to about 7,000m but above they realised the névé field they were climbing was loosely bonded over ice and would undoubtedly slide when hit by the rays of the sun. The three progressed to 7,100m before deciding it was too dangerous. The route was subsequently abandoned but not before four members had climbed Batokshi Peak (Saddle Peak).
Back at Base Camp the group split, half going for an exploratory walk up the Toltar Glacier, while the rest climbed a 150m rock tower above camp. This gave three bold pitches (IV, VI and VII or 5.10c) on excellent granite and was christened Phalwan Chish (c4,200m).
In 2005, Simone Moro try to climb Batura II by regarding this summit as the most virgin one of planet. Indeed, helped by the German historian Wolfgang Heichel, the first ascent would have been directed towards the bad summit. After an acclimatization on Ya Chhish (5130 m) located exactly in front of the face, to take a good look at the coming Batura climbing route, an excellent watchtower to throw a good glance on the route (see Ya Chhish), the ascent turns back when his friend fall down.
Lastly, the British climber Peter Thomson seems climbed Batura II in perfect alpine style in the Nineties. However this ascent was not validated because without permit.

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Batura III (Peak 35) -c7,729m- :

[à compléter]

Batura IV (West Peak) -c7,594m- :

Batura IV seemed to be climb the first time by a japanese expedition in 1978, by a polish expédition in 1983 (leader W. Wisz).

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Batura V (Muchu Chhish, Mush Muztagh) -c7,453m- :

First ascent of this simmit by a polish expédition in 1983.
Although unsuccessful, Luis Lopez's six-member expedition to the South Face of 7,453m Muchu Chhish in the Batura Group may be the first to attempt this high unclimbed peak. Muchu Chhish is situated on the high ridge of the Batura Muztagh approximately midway between Batura VI (7,594m: first climbed by the Japanese via the South West Face in 1978) and the unclimbed Passu Sar (7,476m). The South Face suffers from having a similarly low Base Camp (c4,000m) to Batura I and the last 1,000m of the face, rising above the upper Shendar Cwm, itself reached from the Muchuhar Glacier, would undoubtedly provide the steepest and most difficult (mixed) climbing of the route.

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Batura V East (Muchu Chhish East, Mush Muztagh East) -c7,280m (c6,638m)- :

First ascent of this summit in 1990 by a Japanese expedition.

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Batura VI (Far East Peak) -c7,594m- :

A great icy wall of 20km long at obover 7000m high. Dangerous, none of these summits which were climbed were never by Northern side. A Japanese expedition led by M.Nishigori climbed Batura VI (Far East Peak) in 1978, starting from Baltar glacier by the South-western face. The starting point in the valley of Hunza is the oasis of Chalt, at the confluence of Bola Das river, with gray and muddy water.

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Bojohagur Duanasir (Peak 34/Hunza Peak) -c7,329m- :

Nowadays, everybody forgot this mountain exceptt by local people. The south face is exploiting by men collecting rubies and other semi-precious stones. Only the " horse of the devil " visit this area.
Bojohagur Duanasir, which dominates Baltit, was climbing by a Japanese expedition in 1984 (by the Western face and the South-western ridge).

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See also the same topics pages :
Himalaya du Cachemire Hindu Raj : Description géographique Hindu Kush : Description géographique
Cartes géographiques du Cachemire
Images satellites du Cachemire Statistiques géographiques Index géographique

Révision D - july 06th 2007 (http://blankonthemap.free.fr)

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