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Batura glacier
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The Western area of the Karakoram range is one of the less remote
but one of the most interesting. Karakoram is growing In a fantastic
surge to its west side, a complex zone of very high summits whose name
was christened " the Wall " or the " high Batura Plateau",
an incredible high icecap, prolonged by the Passu Sar (7478m), Shispar
(7611m), Bojohagur Duanasir (7329m) and Kampir Dior (7168m). Not far
to the West, the wild mountains of Hindu Raj growing between Karakoram
and Hindu Kush.
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Interactive map Batura area (57 ko) |
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Batura glacier : |
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By its size (56 km length, 2,5 km broad and 220 km2), Batura glacier can be compare with Hispar, Biafo and Baltoro glaciers. The final part of the glacier is highly dangerous: its surge, jerked and rapid is dangerous for the Karakoram Highway and the access to the Khunjerab Pass and push back the Hunza river against its left bank with the risk to close it. |
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Batura group - 7280m (6638m)/7795m- : |
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After
2 days of walk toward the upper Batura glacier that is possible to see
the impressive wall of Batura. This wall decorated by unamed summits
(c7,400/c7,581m points) is capted by 200 meters of ice from where immense
icebergs are falling down into 3000 meters in a great thunderous noise
in the empty air.
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Batura I (Peak 32) -c7,795m-, North face : |
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In
1959, britishs Keith Wartburton, Richard Knight, Harry Stephenson, and
germans Martin Günnel et Albert Hirschbichler disapear in a big
avalanche in the north face of batura I: Some of the expedtion saw them
at about 7,300m high.
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Batura I (Peak 32) -c7,795m- (c7,786m), South face : |
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After
the tragic consequences to Keith Warburton's British-German expedition
attempting the dangerous north flank of the mountain in 1959, Batura
I was first climbed in 1976 by Hubert Bleicher and Herbert Oberhofer
(who two years earlier had made the first ascent of neighbouring Shispare)
from a German Alpine Club expedition. The team approached the Batura
Col from the east branch of the Baltar Glacier, then crossed the 5,900m
Batokshi Pass before climbing up the South Face to the East Ridge not
far from the east and highest top. Five camps were established on the
route.
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Batura II (Peak 31 / Hunza Kunji ) -c7,762m (c7,594m)-: |
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A
six-man team from the Saxon Alpine Club of Germany made a spirited attempt
on the unclimbed Batura II (7,762m), one of the highest unclimbed points
remaining in the Karakoram. Tilo Dittrich, Günter Jung, Jan Lettke,
Tom Niederlein, Christian and Markus Walter set up Base Camp on the
Baltar Glacier in June and followed the route of the first ascensionists
of 7,786m Batura I. In 1976 a German Alpine Club expedition penetrated
the Eastern Baltar Glacier to the south of the peak and climbed up to
the Batokshi Pass (c5,900m) on the ridge running north from Hachindar
Chish. In the process they climbed the 6,050m Batokshi (or Saddle Peak).
Above the col the ridge fades into the steep upper slopes of the high
Batura Group and the team set out across the South Face of the main
peak. After establishing five camps above Base, Hubert Bleicher and
Herbert Oberhofer, who just two years previously had made the first
ascent of neighbouring Shispare, climbed the final 40-45° snow slopes
and reached the summit on the 30th June. Batokshi Peak (Saddle Peak)
was climbed again in July 1996 by a small international group that made
the largely Alpine style fourth ascent of Batura I via the German Route.
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Batura III (Peak 35) -c7,729m- : |
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[à compléter] |
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Batura IV (West Peak) -c7,594m- : |
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Batura IV seemed to be climb the first time by a japanese expedition in 1978, by a polish expédition in 1983 (leader W. Wisz). |
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Batura V (Muchu Chhish, Mush Muztagh) -c7,453m- : |
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First
ascent of this simmit by a polish expédition in 1983.
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Batura V East (Muchu Chhish East, Mush Muztagh East) -c7,280m (c6,638m)- : |
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First
ascent of this summit in 1990 by a Japanese expedition.
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Batura VI (Far East Peak) -c7,594m- : |
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A great icy wall of 20km long at obover 7000m high. Dangerous, none of these summits which were climbed were never by Northern side. A Japanese expedition led by M.Nishigori climbed Batura VI (Far East Peak) in 1978, starting from Baltar glacier by the South-western face. The starting point in the valley of Hunza is the oasis of Chalt, at the confluence of Bola Das river, with gray and muddy water. |
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Bojohagur Duanasir (Peak 34/Hunza Peak) -c7,329m- : |
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Nowadays,
everybody forgot this mountain exceptt by local people. The south face
is exploiting by men collecting rubies and other semi-precious stones.
Only the " horse of the devil " visit this area.
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See also the same
topics pages :
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